Back to CNN’s Parts Unknown. Anthony Bourdain this week brings us to Massachusetts. Assumed it would focus on Boston dining scene. Wrong! After taking us to his beginnings in Provincetown, land’s end of Cape Cod, he reveals that’s where his heroin addiction began. From there, he comes here. To Western Massachusetts. Route 91 North to SideTrekFalls. And Greenfield.
Heroin has been epidemic in these parts for decades. My former “facialist” first clued me in to the problem in Northampton in the late ’90’s. Kids of clients dead. From smack. It has only gotten worse as the economy declined. And when hometown sports heroes get injured, need surgery, they get hooked on oxy’s. Yup. Doctors as dealers.
Behind our red barns, beyond our fertile meadows, under our bridges of flowers. What you don’t see is a sorry scene. Bourdain is a brilliant journalist.
Three ferries to the Hamptons. Only way to go. Last minute availability on our favorite plage. Left Northampton at 9am. On the beach in Amagansett at 2pm.
Stayed until sunset. Last cocktail with the seashore to ourselves. Bliss. Steamed lobster at perennial ClamBar. Breakfast at Bird on the Roof in Montauk. Crêpes and crispy bacon. A real roly poly pig in the middle of the road in the pouring rain. What?! Quite the sight. Shelter island ferries back again after a few fun days. Lunch by the dock at Blue Canoe in Greeport. Miso encrusted cod rivaled Nobu standards. Spicy mussels, too.
Stopped for a tasting at Kontokosta Winery on the way to Orient Point-New London ferry. Rosés in tow. Ready to go. Another great spur of the moment getaway.
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New London to Orient Point Ferry Cross Sound. Our circular tour around Long Island’s North and South Forks. Lunched at BlueCanoe on Greenport’s dock. Fried local oysters. Took scenic Route 25 past wineries reminiscent of Napa in the early ’80’s, before they jammed the valley and the byways. To Peconic Lane, and NorthFound, a trove of treasures from around the globe.
Drove down to Riverhead and up the South Fork through the Hamptons to our perennial beachfront haunt in Napeague. Favorite Clam Bar was almost blown away by a violent thunder storm the day we arrived, and we found it closed. Oh no! But, next morning all was well. Several days of perfect weather, lobster, little necks fresh from the sea. Had to end sometime. Took three ferries from Sag Harbor to Shelter Island to Greenport back to Cross Sound. It sure was fun forking around.
Monday summer trek. Along General Lafayette Trail, Route 143 West, up hills and down vales to Ireland Street in Chesterfield, Mass. Take a right toward the Westfield River and then… a natural wonderment surprise. Chesterfield Gorge. More photos on TravelTreks.